Driving the Oregon coast in shoulder season

Empty beaches, foggy mornings, and small towns that earn a second visit.

We rented a small car and drove south from Astoria with no real itinerary, which turned out to be the right call. November on the Oregon coast belongs to people who don't mind weather.

The diner in Yachats serves clam chowder that ruins every other clam chowder. I won't apologize for that sentence. The fog rolled in around three and stayed.

By the time we got to Bandon I was already planning the next trip. That is how a good coast does its work.